Plate by Plate

On food as a tool for healing, advocacy, and change


As I stepped into the Conservatory at One Sansome Street, I was bathed in a warm, purple glow infusing the space with a palpable energy, and the room gradually awakened to the influx of people and movement. Volunteers swiftly checked in attendees dressed to the nines. Participating restaurants and organizations prepared their food and beverage with gusto, serving the plates to eagerly awaiting guests. As people gathered around tables, exchanging appreciating nods and smiles between bites, there was an unspoken understanding that we came together to share and celebrate our love of food. For many of us, food is an invitation to gather, to connect, and to belong to a bigger community beyond ourselves.

Every year, volunteer-led nonprofit Project by Project hosts Plate by Plate, a series of fundraising events in San Francisco, New York, and Los Angeles. This year, the San Francisco AAPI community gathered to bring awareness to this year’s theme of food insecurity, with proceeds benefiting Chinatown YMCA. Although food can often provide a place of comfort and healing, to many folks in our communities, the lack of access to affordable, healthy, and culturally significant foods can create an environment that breeds loneliness, feelings of isolation, and a loss of cultural identity. Gradually, this chips away at what food is supposed to represent: nourishment. Not only nourishment in terms of daily sustenance, but the nourishment that comes from being around community, culture, and care.

As the evening unfolded, food insecurity became more than just a conversation. It's an ongoing movement that extends beyond this event, brought to life by those whose actions and passions are often left unseen. Through their stories, food is not only fuel that nourishes the soul, but a tool for healing, advocacy, and change.

Food as a source of community and comfort, and care

When people think of San Francisco’s Chinatown, they often picture the colorful Dragon’s Gate, red lanterns hanging above streets, and storefronts offering delicious, cheap eats. However, for many residents experiencing daily food insecurity, the reality can be quite different. Monica Lai, Associate Executive Director of Chinatown YMCA, detailed some of the unique challenges Chinatown residents face. “Our community is very low-income and made up mostly of immigrants from Asia. One big challenge is simply shopping and having enough food to put on the table.” She explained, “Chinatown is not a food desert; we do have lots of grocery stores and food available, but many people don’t make enough money to put healthy food on the table for their families.” 

In San Francisco, one in four people face food insecurity. This can be a shocking statistic for many folks, especially considering the City is the heart of the tech industry. Carol Wai, Community Engagement Director of Chinatown YMCA, explained, “It’s not so much misconceptions as it is distance. If you’re not in the community, you don’t see it, and you might not think it’s real. I always encourage people—come volunteer at our food pantry, senior lunch, or family dinner, and you’ll see the reality within minutes.”

Food is an integral part of Asian cultures, from everyday meals to seasonal celebrations, highlighting how culturally relevant foods are crucial to Chinatown YMCA’s mission and Grocery Support Program.

Wai explained, “A lot of our clients are of Asian descent, and the food we get from the food bank—well, they don’t always match our needs.” An example is families receiving artichokes or chickpeas, leaving them wondering, “What do I do with this?” By being thoughtful in their selection and providing culturally relevant foods, Chinatown YMCA provides more than just sustenance. It’s a connection to a wider community.

That feeling of community is reaffirmed weekly for two specific groups: families and seniors. Every week, families can come to cook and eat together. “It’s a way for new immigrants to meet their neighbors, build relationships, and get support,” Lai shared. For seniors, community becomes even more important. Many seniors face social isolation or loneliness as they age, and sadly, they often become invisible in society. At Chinatown YMCA, seniors can come together weekly to enjoy each other’s company as they cook and eat, easing many of the societal challenges they face. 

Chinatown YMCA is more than a space where residents, both new and old, can gather, share meals, and build relationships. It’s a refuge that provides a sense of belonging and reassurance for folks to feel seen, cared for, and valued.  

Food as a catalyst for awareness and action

Every year, Project by Project selects a theme for Plate by Plate that aims to resonate within the Asian community across the United States. Helen Ma, National President, told Timid that during and following the pandemic, there was a widespread assumption that food insecurity doesn’t affect the Asian community. “When you really look at the data and statistics, you see that a lot of food banks in California, especially in the Bay Area, started shutting down because of the assumption that there wasn’t a need,” Ma explained.

This assumption, however, overlooks the reality that food insecurity within the Asian community is very present. Ma continued, “When we looked at this issue, we saw that food in the Asian American community is such a central part of what brings people together. It’s how we celebrate, show love, and connect.” The idea that access to food—a core element of Asian culture—is an issue that impacts places close to home, like San Francisco’s Chinatown, deeply resonated with Project by Project.

Food insecurity often goes unnoticed, sometimes masked by stereotypes and assumptions about Asian communities. However, through its work with local organizations like Chinatown YMCA, Project by Project could better understand the magnitude of the issue within our neighborhoods. Kathy Chang, San Francisco Chapter President, said that food insecurity is not just about access to food—it’s about access to culturally relevant food, which plays a crucial role in maintaining identity and community bonds. “It’s definitely a challenge to get culturally relevant food. People think it’s easy to just get ingredients and make a meal. It’s not and it goes deeper than that,” she said, highlighting the importance of ensuring food reflects the cultural identities of those in need.

Ma further emphasized the need for understanding and involvement, saying, “We’re asking attendees to learn about food security issues impacting the AAPI community and to help raise awareness and funds. There’s so much need in the community, but people often assume there isn’t. We want to flip that assumption and make people realize that attending an event like ours can actually contribute to meaningful change.”

Despite the complexity of the issue, Chang further cemented this and viewed Plate by Plate as a platform to build awareness and be a call to action. This was more than just one event or one night. It’s a movement. For Chang, change starts small. “If attendees can walk away with a better understanding of these issues, then that’s a good first step.”

Disclaimer: This interview was edited for length and clarity.